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A couple questions. First, does it go in and out when you are not moving? If you are out on the water and it begins to be erratic, try stopping the boat and see if it recovers.
Is it mounted on the Stern or is it a thru hull?
If it is not failing while you are sitting still it may be that you are getting air around the transducer which is interrupting its signal. (Cavitation ). This is especially common on Stern mounted transducers if they’re not mounted correctly I.e. they are too high or too low.
If you find that the problem is the transducer and it is a thru hull mount then you will most likely have to haul the boat to replace the transducer.
I hope that helps a little.
Hi there! Yes we did announce that in May and have been working to develop that idea. We currently have a mini rendezvous that will be scheduled in early September for the South sound. The details will be posted shortly.We have asked for volunteers to help coordinate and lead a North sound \San Juan’s mini rendezvous and a Canadian rendezvous but have not received any volunteers to facilitate those. If you or someone else reading this would like to volunteer, please let me know. You can reach me at firstname.lastname@example.org
We had scheduled our 2021 rendezvous in Sidney BC. Due to the border closure we could not proceed. Most all of the US locations are booked for the summer due to previous commitments.
We do see a light at the end of the tunnel for 2022 and are planning the rendezvous at Sidney.
Tom and Terry, we’re gonna miss you on the water! We do hope that you’ll stay as associate members and keep posting the great maintenance tips that you have!
We finished with the new exhaust riser installation on Last Splash. Because our fridge cutout intruded into the engine space we have a shorter elbow. It still gives us more height from the waterline so backwash will not be an issue. Our boat is heavy in the water with the dinghy and crane up top so we sit lower than some. Our original riser looks the same as in Tom’s picture above.
Picture #1 shows the inside of the rubber hose from the riser to the muffler. As I suspected there had been a crack from the inside causing salt weeping between the laminate layers. You can see the crack at the bottom of the hose.. looks like a smile. ( NOT funny though! ) This may have occurred due to an overheat issue prior to our ownership.. I have an overheat indicator installed to prevent that from occurring again.
Pic #2 Shows the delamination between layers. Note that this was not visible from the outside. This was only visible because we cut the hose in half to remove it.
Pic #3 Shows the corrosion around the outflow side of the riser.
Pic #4 Shows the finished installation with the insulation blanket on.
Although this work resulted in a couple of “boat units” to complete, it gives us security knowing that we won’t have a major failure (which was on the way with the delamination). Having the hose fail could fill the bilge with water while underway! Also the higher elbow prevents water from backwashing in from the exhaust in heavy seas. That could result in water entering the turbo which would destroy it and possibly the engine. A big thanks goes out to Tom Easterbrook for motivating me to follow-up with this project. Our Tug is 16 years young but it was time to check on some things that often get overlooked!
Last Splash NT-37 102
Carole and I have a 04’ Nordic Tug 37. I started hearing stories of this riser failure being an issue several years ago and had been considering changing it then. To my knowledge it is original to the boat. After reading Tom’s story I decided to go ahead and do it this year since we are not cruising as much and Carole just had a partial knee replacement. I’m having a national diesel exhaust brand riser installed. The standard riser though is too high for our application so Scott from national exhaust had to come and measure for the clearances necessary to install it in our boat. Although I had replaced and or rebuilt our exchanger and after cooler in 2016 I also took them apart and inspected them. The heat exchanger looked fine but the aftercooler needed some cleaning out and attention. All that aluminum I guess is a little more susceptible to the corrosion.
Once we get the installation completed I’ll repost with some pictures and more information. Thanks Tom for encouraging me through your posts to move forward with this. I do know that the hose between the muffler and the riser was starting to weep salt water thus likely beginning the eventual failure process.
I am towing a Grady white 18 foot center console. It weighs in at about 2200 pounds. At comparable RPMs it slows us down anywhere from a half to one knot depending on conditions. I’m afraid that your kingfisher may be too large for the 37 foot Nordic Tug.
Also in reply to your visibility question, a simple answer to being snuck up upon from behind by ferries, etc. is to install AIS. It’s great to see those ferries coming around the corner before you can actually see them.
Hey there Ken!
I have a 2004 37’ Nordic Tug. The visibility aft is primarily through two smaller windows at the top aft end of the pilot house. These do not give you visibility of the immediate wake behind you but you do have visibility further back. In addition the side windows give you the ability to look at your wake. Several notes from my experience; I tow a small fishing boat a lot of the time when we cruise so it’s important for me to keep an eye it. I have not found it difficult to watch it through those windows I referred to. It rides about 100’ from the boat so it allows me to watch its movements. I also have a dinghy on the upper deck so I had higher chocks installed so I can see underneath the dinghy without being obstructed. Finally for aft visibility you always have the option of installing a rearward facing camera that can be viewed in the pilot house.
good luck on your tug search and keep us updated when you find one!
Randy, I checked my fire boy on-board extinguisher today and it is a 500 ft.³. Let me know what you decide.
Hi there Randy!
I also have a 37 with the fire boy built-in system. When I get a chance to look at it I will let you know what size it is but I’m pretty sure it’s a 500 ft.³.
You probably could get away with the 400 ft.³ but here are a couple things to think about first. Remember that your engine vents are open so some of that agent is going to be lost to venting and airflow. In addition having that extra agent buys you additional discharge time which will enhance the suppression capabilities of the agent. Having just enough when you have an on board fire is not as comforting as having a little extra. When you’re in The middle of a fire event there’s no way to add a little more if you haven’t prepared for it ahead of time
This train of thought of course is coming from a 40 year professional in the fire service. You may want to talk to the factory and see how they determined the sizing of the extinguisher as well. ABYC standards may have dictated that along with Coast Guard standards.
I would go for the 500 ft.³ extinguisher and pay a little more now rather than wish I had later when I needed it.
Welcome to Panntoa Bob! If I hear of anything that meets your criteria I will certainly let you know. I look forward to meeting you when we can.
yes, it does require a support post into the cockpit. There are two ways to approach this. One is to mount it up close to the bulkhead behind the propane locker and the other is to mount it further aft. The difference is that by mounting it forward near the bulkhead the arm will not have enough reach to get the dinghy off the stern of the boat if you’re at a dock. The aft mount may allow that but does occlude part of your cockpit for seating. It’s just a matter of preference which way you might want to go. We went with the forward mount and except the fact that if we want to take the dinghy off at the dock we have to have a port tie.
cap Sante Marina did a good job with the installation. Very neat and thoughtful. The boat units involved in purchase and installation are not for the faint of heart though.
send me an email and I will try to get some photos and return them to you next time I’m up on the boat.
We not so affectionately call that anchor groan! If you use an anchor bridle to take the weight of the anchor and chain off of the windless and give enough slack in the chain it will reduce some of that noise.
We also have an ‘04 37. When we bought it, it had a Seawise transom mount. Because we tow a fishing boat we couldn’t keep the dinghy there so we purchased a steelhead 800 crane and mounted the dinghy up top. When we had the dinghy chocks installed I had them put removable bases on them and made them a little higher so I could see out behind me through the pilot house windows. When we want to have a happy hour on the upper deck we just pull the dinghy off. The chocks are then removed and put aside until we’re ready to put the dinghy back up.
we were initially concerned about the weight higher on the boat but it has not seemed to be a significant impact.
I had Cap Sante Marina install it.
Email Dave Allen at the Nordic Tug factory. I’ll bet he has information that can help you since they put put a few of those on trailers when they sold them.
is this a new boat to you or are you just putting it out of the water onto the trailer?
You might also inspect the caulk condition between the pilot house and the upper deck and the hull and the swim step. Those tend to be ignored and if not recalked periodically, will begin leaking.
I did not see in your post that you checked your gear box cooler. If you haven’t you might do that as well.
what is the name of your boat?